Tanjong Pagar is not short on choices. There’s Korean barbecue, Italian comfort food and dandy boozy fun to be had, and in spades. There’s so much happening there in fact, that often you don’t plan ahead — “let’s just head there first and decide where we want to sit later” is the usual preamble. That’s my main gripe about the ‘hood nowadays. It’s exciting, but not intriguing, and it doesn’t make me want to get my hair done.
The Saha Signature Restaurant & Bar, which opened in June this year at Duxton Road, breaks the monotony.
When you enter the stairwell, you’re immediately greeted by photographs of tender scenes in India — these are shot by Chef Abhijit Saha (top photo) himself, a household name with two critically acclaimed restaurants Caperberry and Fava, in Bangalore. Upstairs, much of the former Buyan dining lounge has been retained — the walls are wood panelled and the room is bathed in a soft light that enriches the earthy colour theme. Even that mural depicting sailors and men in horseback is still on the ceiling. Other than an Indian decorative here and a candle painted on by Chef’s wife there, it’s largely the same place. Luckily, it works.
Chef Saha’s deep knowledge of age-old cuisines from the various regions of India really shines in the menu, but what will trigger the oohs and aahs is his execution of modern cooking concepts — you know, like sous vide and molecular gastronomy. As with a lot of people I know, I’m a skeptic. You can’t put a dollop of foam on a plate and call it a meal. I can’t relate to that. But Chef, who’s been described as a passionate food researcher, is a master of both worlds. The taste, culturally and traditionally, is accurate — this is important to those of us familiar with the cuisine — it’s just the form that’s changed. And reasonable portions considering, I’m happy with that. In fact, I’ve managed once or twice to crave a liquid nitrogen version of whatever curry I’m eating, just because of Chef’s Kerala istew espuma (vegetable and chicken available).
That was the third dish I had. The first was a starter prepared using a method called spherification. In a nutshell, it’s like popping an egg yolk in your mouth and having it burst in unexpected flavours. The ones I had were tamarind and spice, and mango-ginger. This idea is so versatile, I can think of some other combinations I’d like Chef to try. Afterwards, it was the balchao spiced grilled scallop salad (photo below) and wow, what a taste. I don’t think I’ve ever had ‘Indian scallops’ and mine happened to be a tad overdone, but the Goa-style masala turned it around. The kakori lamb roulade, slow-cooked like a kebab with sweet maple wood smoke and served with couscous pulao and date chutney, is probably the most traditional dish I tried on tasting night. Incredibly tender and decadent, and expectedly so — after all, it was the food of the Mughal emperors. I wish I’d gotten a taste of Chef’s interpretation of meen molly, which is a classic curry. He was going to prepare it that evening deconstructed to a panna cotta with cod, and served with tomato chutney and tamarind rice.
If by now you’re excited to go to Saha Signature Restaurant & Bar, then I’ve done my job. If you’re planning to dress up for the occasion (look at these photos — if the food can look that good, you should, too), I’ve done my job well. Word of advice: order a Drunken Cigar before dinner or as a nightcap (or both, whatever) at their charming alfresco terrace bar to give your outfit more mileage.
Saha Signature Indian Restaurant & Bar is at 2/F 9A Duxton Hill, 6223-7321. Open Mon — Sat noon — 3pm, 6 — 11pm.
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