COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE—Ever since we got hit by the K-wave (sometime in 2010), Singapore’s been inundated with Korean food options. And for the longest time the crowd was just going where the pop culture references went. The 2D1N Soju Bang, named after the popular variety show that at the time starred dimple-cheeked actor Lee Seunggi, was one of the pioneers of the game. Soon, other Korean barbecues popped up, each ubiquitously equipped with Infinite, IU and Super Junior posters, and bottles of soju endorsed by the MILF-ish Lee Hyori.
While I appreciated the thrill that eating barbecued meat wrapped in sangchu while a BIGBANG song was playing in the background gave me, I never emerged from any of these places dying to come back with my other foodie friends. Everytime someone asked me how my experience was, I could only manage a, “it was alright”.
Until now.
Since reading Andre Frois’ Coconuts Hot Spot in April this year, I’ve been to Kimchi Korean Restaurant in the new wing of Suntec City three times and — and I never say this — each was better than the last.
Chef Choi Minchul had added 14 new items and scrapped the idea of ala carte side dishes (you can now get these free flow when you order select mains) by the time I sat down to review the restaurant proper, which really didn’t help me cope with my excitement.
Thankfully, his hot favourite signature Andong Chicken (comes in jjim dak [$15] and dolsot bap [$14.90]) was still available, so I ordered that. As always, Chef’s family recipe for braised boneless chicken thighs didn’t disappoint — the meat was tender, the sauce perfectly salty with a spicy kick that came from fresh green chilli pepper. Chef Choi’s generous, yet appropriate addition of glass noodles and seasonal vegetables also gave the dish texture.
Another dish I had that was spicy (but only faintly) was one of Chef’s new items, the Mandu Ramen ($13.90). The dumplings were chewy, the broth moreish, and the bowl boasted a satisfying noodle-to-soup ratio.
While the unabashed use of chilli at Kimchi Korean Restaurant is enough to keep me interested, there are also other reasons. One of them is Chef’s various ginseng chicken dishes: soup, porridge ($12.90) and ramen. I had as much as I could of the porridge, which was bowl-scrapingly good with the side dishes (black beans, bean sprouts and some tongue-tingling kimchi) and Korean soybean sauce that came with. Addictive to say the least, with its mildly gelatinous consistency and garnish of Korean licorice, ginseng, ginkgo nut and red dates.
If you want to play the role of the Korean family sitting around a barbecue, you can — and you won’t stink like a snack tent when you pop by Sephora afterwards either. Located within an airconditioned mall, Kimchi’s gone the extra mile to install electric grills that don’t smoke you out. The menu’s pretty affordable, too — my order of succulent Angus rib eye ($26) comfortably served four, but if you’re after something more, they also have hanging tenders, pork fillets and Wagyu beef short ribs in both marinated and non-marinated options. Non-barbecue lovers will also find something to tuck in to from their steak menu ($15 — 28).
So you already know the menu’s pretty extensive (and if you’re not convinced, they’ve got it up online) and the food’s the bomb. The next thing you need to know is that they’ve got a retail section right by the entrance that looks like a mini supermarket, stocking imported fruits, vegetables, condiments and dessert. Really smart move since you’re likely to be inspired by Korean cooking after your meal. The staff? Knowledgeable, and while not 100% attentive, are ready to please. And who needs K-pop posters — there are none here FYI, unless you count the water bottle labels — when the staff are this cute?
Overall: seriously good food, great location and waiters that look like they might break into synchronised dance moves. The only thing that could’ve made it better was if Lee Minho himself had been waiting on me.
Kimchi Korean Restaurant is at #02-387 Suntec City Mall, 3 Temasek Boulevard, 6337-7811. Open daily 10am — 10pm. Best to call.
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