Expectations are a funny thing, they just can’t help but run away from you. It would be lovely to go through life with none at all, being pleasantly surprised by everything, no matter how average it is. Alas, few of us can master such a Zen-like state, instead spending our lives trying to keep a lid on those hopes and dreams in a bid to avoid constant disappointment.
That’s not to say Japanese fine dining restaurant Marukyu is a disappointment, just that it doesn’t always quite hit the heights I’d originally expected. Is that Marukyu’s fault, or mine? Almost certainly the latter, but I can’t help but feel that this omakase and sushi joint at the end of super hip Telok Ayer Street sets itself up to offer a little bit more than it delivers.
Opened last year, in the space below bespoke apparel designer Chong Han San (who are also involved as owners), its original aim was to offer a middle ground for fans of Japanese cuisine. Somewhere for those discerning diners who wanted something more than cut-price sushi joints but couldn’t quite stretch to afford the astronomic bills of Waku Ghin, Shinji or Shirashi.
In short, a place that used great quality ingredients but didn’t want you to sell your own kidney in return. A potential promised land surely? Well maybe that’s where I went wrong, maybe for once I got carried away reading the reviews and interviews rather than ignoring the hype and heading along with none of those darn expectations to drag me down.
Still the spiel is pretty appealing. For starters, the place is manned by the experienced Chef Derrick Lau, someone who certainly knows all about Japanese haute cuisine. Lau has over 22 years of experience in the business, including seven spent as the head of Nadaman at the Shangri-La Singapore. And like many fine dining Japanese restaurant’s, this small 50-seater venue definitely has a similar focus on serving up a selection of omakase – “it’s up to you”—menu’s, where you leave the decision’s in Lau’s capable hands.
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Prices are slightly more reasonable than most similar ventures, but with lunch omakase sets starting from $68 and dinner options ranging from $100 to $150, they’re not exactly cheap either. And that’s when those darn expectations start kicking in. Sure that’s not excessively expensive, but you can’t help but want to be wowed when you are forking over three figures for dinner; and while Marukyu clearly uses high quality, fresh ingredients (regularly flown in from Japan) and utilizes some very artful presentation, neither the place or the food necessarily have enough of a wow factor to have us rushing to return — at least for the omakase sets.
The venue itself is, like many Japanese venues, is functional rather than thrilling. There are some nice touches, especially the chunky wooden lights above the sushi bar, and I happily accept that its narrow shophouse location means minimalism is always going to be king. Still I would question the rather cheap looking branches adorning one wall and do wonder if they could have imbued a little bit more sexiness to combat the rather functional ambiance.
Service also falls into the same functional camp, fast and attentive but never anything more refined. Still, special mention should go to the charming Lau, who is more than happy to chat about the latest dish he’s placed in front of you, if and when he gets a break from manning the sushi bar.
He also clearly works hard at putting together some beautifully presented food, from the whelk shell perched atop a burning pyre of salt to the artful sashimi served on a plate decorated with seasonal flowers. Unfortunately, the flavours and textures don’t always live up to those same high standards. This is perhaps especially true for the omakase sets, where you are by their very nature leaving it up to the chef to wow you.
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There are two omakase options to choose from at lunch ($68 — 88) and four at dinner ($100 — 150), with the difference being the number of courses and options served up and a real focus on using seasonal ingredients. Last time out I went all out for one of the most expensive choices, the Omakase Mai set ($150), which promises six courses from three seasonal appetisers through to tender slices of A5 Omi Wagyu Hobayaki steak served on a leaf atop a pretty charcoal burner.
Out of the six courses served up a couple did hit some pretty heady heights. The creamy, zesty goodness of their scallop sashimi is really something very, very special in a plate of generally good quality raw fish, while the sesame ice cream served with fruit did mark a perfect end to the meal thanks to its palate-cleansing bitterness.
Yet, the other courses, while certainly solid enough were just a little too hum drum to match those darn expectations of mine. The whelkshell mentioned above is overly chewy and though the broth is pleasantly smoky it’s at best comforting never thrilling. The same could be said for the seasonal starter of fuku, abalone and gingko bean (see photo) — it’s all well executed but certainly doesn’t get the pulse racing, which is a real shame as it’s meant to set the mood for the whole meal.
These really are minor grumbles and I couldn’t criticise presentation or quality of any of the dishes served to me. Of course omakase has the potential to be a hit and miss experience, as much down to the tastes of the individual diner as the skills of the chef. Who knows maybe next time around more dishes would hit the mark, but I’d still go back to the fact that $150 is not a cheap meal, even in this expensive town.
It’s why I’d probably recommend skipping the omakase options completely and suggest you go for greater control of your dining experience. Clearly aware of its excellent location in the middle of the CBD Marukyu serves up plenty of more affordable a la carte options and sets to lure in the local office workers and media types.
The good news is they stick to that original mantra of using high quality ingredients and as a result many of the dishes represent really good value for the price. The Bento lunch sets, going from $16 — 35 are an excellent lunch time choice, while the sushi and sashimi, like the deliciously tender salmon ($12) starting from as little as $10, are certainly very appealing if you you’re yourself hankering some raw fish when you’re in the downtown area.
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Unfortunately, I would probably not come back for anything more elaborate — preferring to pick and choose my dishes next time rather than leave it up to the chef to decide. Does that mean that Marukyu is a disappointment, certainly not, just another case of me having to adjust my expectations. I was looking for something remarkable but the experience, while still very good, is just a little more functional than I’d expected.
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