Even with all the ramen joints already on this island, the trend shows no signs of stopping. New businesses continue to pack in the crowds with new noodle varieties from different parts of Japan. Set on fast expanding dining stretch Circular Road, Takumen is no different. It sees a steady stream of CBD office workers on weekdays and Japanese expat families over the weekend. A cosy 30-seater—right by Raffles Place MRT — tables fill up fast. And if you come at lunch, be prepared to wait in line for a spot.
Once you do finagle yourself a seat though, the narrow space is pretty understated, outfitted with basic light wood furnishings. Unlike many other ramen eateries, they don’t plaster flashy award signs on the walls. But rest assured, the stuff here has been highly rated, with their popular Hajime chicken ramen winning the Tokyo Ramen of the Year (TRY) prize for two years running (2010 — 2011).
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The place is an offshoot of fast growing online ramen store Takumen, which offers over 100 kinds of ramen for delivery nationwide in Japan. The Circular Road outlet is the company’s first brick-and-mortar effort. (They’ve since opened a second outlet at The Public Izakaya.) And they serve up a rotating selection of six ramen types chosen from the full Takumen menu. Currently on offer are the tonkotsu-based Honda Shoten (from $15.90), miso-infused Do Miso (from $17.90), meaty Chibakara (from $18.90), well balanced pork and chicken Sakutaya (from $16.90), award-wining Hajime (from $14.90), and chilli-spiked Bingiri (from $17.90). Order each bowl either “authentic” Japanese style or Singapore style (with less salt and oil).
The most popular of the lot is the Hajime, which features a light creamy chicken soup base. Each variety of ramen here comes in a special bowl, designed to best showcase its individual characteristics. And the Hajime comes in a narrow vessel, which delivers the delicate aroma straight up to your nose.
Photo: ChibakaraOn the other end of the spectrum is the Chibakara, a hulking Jiro-style bowlful perfect for big appetites. Packed with cabbage and garlic, and topped with thick slabs of charshu, it comes with a little pot of vinegar which you can use to doctor your ramen to taste. The condiment is essential. It cuts the richness, sort of like the vinegar in local dish lor mee.
Spice-fiends can opt for the Bingiri. It packs some Sichuan-style heat, with floral aromatic peppercorns infusing the bright red broth. Though less fiery than Chinese tan tan mian, it’s still a real warming bowlful. On the Chiba coast — where this style of ramen originates — fishermen are known to fill up on Bingiri after a day out on the frigid sea waters.
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In typical Japanese style, Takumen offers thoughtful little touches like hair ties (for folks to keep hair out of their face when slurping up soup) and bibs — to prevent chilli oil stains from the Bingiri. The staff are very particular about the food too. Each broth is carefully tested every morning. And if it doesn’t taste right, it’s off the menu.
The noodle house is very much a traditional Japanese spot featuring authentic recipes presented with great precision. They put out some lesser known ramen types too. It’s a real solid option when you want some variety.
Takumen is at #01-01, 66 Circular Rd., 6536-4875. Open Mon — Thu 11:30am — 3pm and 5:30pm —10:30pm; Fri 11:30am — 3pm and 5:30pm — midnight; Sat 5:30pm — midnight; Sun 11:30am — 3pm.
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