The Argentinians are fond of dinner parties. To them eating’s not just the consumption of food, but the celebration of relationships, which is why the recent revamp of Martin Road restaurant Bochinche, is so apt.
Structurally the 3,500 sq. ft restaurant is the same, but everything else — from the decor to the menu — is significantly more relaxed.
The ‘lazy Sunday’ vibe hits you the moment you enter, through what is possibly their most exciting new feature: the Gourmet Market. There’s a freezer holding grass-fed Argentinian beef in cuts like burger, ribeye and sirloin, as well as house-made chorizo and 15 types of charcuterie including Italian salumi and Spanish hams. On displays inspired by traditional vendor carts are pantry basics (condiments, oils, spices), plus Bochinche (Provoleta cheese) and Argentinian (dulche de leche) signatures. There are about 100 of these specialty products, as well as 80 bottles of wine, all hand-picked by Chef Diego Jacquet.
Step a little further and you see pops of colour where it used to be just masses of wood and leather. The kitchen’s still on the right and the bar on the left, but the latter’s adopted a fresh green and black palette. Plants hang down the aisle from the cratewood drop ceiling and just becoming visible is the Banksy-inspired art on the walls of the dining room, where the main draw is. Adding to the warmth of the new space are humourous little gems like coasters with fun facts printed on them and pun-ny bucket seat sleeves.
Distinctly new on the menu is the Cold Bar ($8 — 23) section, a selection of chilled plates that boasts of Argentina’s diverse produce and culinary influences. Think chilled pea soup (with shallots, yoghurt and mint) and crab on toast with humita (sweet corn). If, like many diners, you (always) prefer your food hot, dive straight into the starters menu, made up of both original (pig’s head croquettes [$12], empanadas [$6 each] filled with ingredients like braised beef and roast chicken) and new items (Provoleta, almonds and oregano honey [$15]). Argentina is also one of the world’s largest meat producers, so the grill section of the menu continues to be an attraction — both the lomo beef fillet ($78) and the bife ancho rib eye steak ($55), also available for sale at the Gourmet Market, are new.
Photo: Chips “Provencal”
If you have room for only one dessert, make sure it’s something with their dulche de leche (“candy of milk”). There are two items that use the national Argentinian spread: the creme brulee with banana split ice-cream ($17) and the creme caramel, dulche de leche and chocolate crumble ($13) — both are pretty unforgettable.
Bochinche’s drinks menu is a dizzying array of Argentinian reds and whites (starts at $14 a glass, bottle and carafe options available), plus cocktails (starts at $16 each).
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